Riding up Jacob’s Creek
With almost guaranteed sunshine, endless roads and more wine that you can wave your glass at Steve Thomas takes a visit to South Australia;
Being something of a wine buff, or should I say a budding wino, I simply could not resist the chance to take a cycling trip around the Barossa Valley, Australia’s premier wine growing region, which is nestled just on the outskirts of Adelaide in sunny South Australia.
This region strikes a cord and whets the taste buds of any a wine lover, and could be considered the heart and home of Australian wine producing, and the nations major supplier of wines to the rest of the world. Not only that – it was January, mid winter in the northern hemisphere, while the thermometer hardly dips bellow 30 degrees here at this time of year, a seemingly perfect duo of reasons to be in the area. And of course - add in the fantastic cycling in the area, and it’s an easy call to make.
Needless to say the local cyclists such as Stuart O’Grady and Luke Roberts have long been pounding the roads of this region, but if first came to world prominence as a cycling destination a few years back - thanks to the Tour Down Under.
It was mid January, and the Tour it’s self was about to hit the self same roads as we use on our rides. The valley lies just over 50-km from Adelaide, which makes it the perfect destination for the pro teams who turn out to train here before the tour each year, and there were certainly plenty of them around whenever we chose to pedal out. But I guess they weren't too fussed about stopping off for a cappuccino or sampling the local Shiraz.
We’d come in to Barossa through the hills from Adelaide, where I’d spent a few days riding through the surprisingly hilly and tree clad hills of the suburbs. I really hadn’t expected such terrain in the area, but could see why it was such a popular destination for visiting cyclists.
Leaving the Adelaide Hills behind the first thing that struck me was how much the landscape changes in such a short period of time. The long climbs and tree shaded meandering roads gradually faded out, and like a recovering heart rate profile things smoothed out and spread out some, making it a whole lot friendlier towards legs and lungs.
The valley it’s self is fairly flat, with just one real hiccup thrown in to the pot to get you sweating - Mengler's Hill, a regular KOM shaker in the TDU. We’d planned a couple of days riding in the valley, and chose to base ourselves in Tanunda, the town at the heart of the local wine and tourism industry. The towns in this region are very Germanic looking, as many of the early settlers and original wine producers were from Germany.
The town is also right at the foot of Mengler's Hill; so we had to deal with it before we’d even had time to straighten our helmets (which are obligatory in Oz), which is kind of a cruel kick start to the ride. The climb is quite steep in places, but thankfully not long enough to cause too much damage. The views through the trees as you climb are quite special, although you’ll probably be panting too much to appreciate them. Huge wide-open vistas over a patchwork quilt like valley, spread out behind you, all dotted with small lakes is what you’ll see if you glance over your shoulder. The whole wine region is panned out before you from here, and it looks surprisingly dry and arid, but none the less spectacular.
As soon as you pass over the summit you find yourself hurtling down through tree lined agricultural farm roads, which are really peaceful and great to ride. On the horizon is the town of Angaston, a sleepy but interesting place, and well worth the slight diversion. Old Lutheran churches and Germanic style buildings characterise the place.
Heading back from here is a real treat; more sun dappled and tree lined roads lead towards Springton, a small outpost seemingly long lost in time terms. Although we took the main road, we also checked out the dirt roads around here, which are excellent if you’re up for a little rough and tumble. On these roads you can really get away from things, as long as you have decent wide profile tyres that is.
Facilities are sparse once you get away from the main tourist hubs; just the odd shop and pub where you can get hold of a staple pie and tinny, so it’s well worth stocking up on water and food before you hit the roads for long rides, especially considering the heat.
Springton was more or less the turn around point for us on day one, so we swung back towards Williams Town. This is a great stretch or road, lined with tall trees, and meandering it’s way through the countryside. We passed a couple of the pro teams and the national team riding this stretch, as well as numerous local cyclists, so it’s not exactly a secret, but at least we were in good company.
With the sun beating down we returned to Tanunda, part one of pilgrimage fulfilled, well almost - you couldn’t make a pilgrimage to the Barossa without partaking of the local holy water, can you? That would be a sin!
The Santos Tour Down Under
Each January the Tour Down Under takes place in the region. The race is based around Adelaide, although stages ride out all around the region. The race takes place late in January. Many of the top European and US pro teams flock to the area not only for the race, but some pre race training in the area, so you can expect to see them on the local roads during this period.
There are also a number of amateur races taking place around the event, so a whole carnival like atmosphere can be expected. There is also a TDU “Etape” style ride over one of the stages.
Bike shops
There are not many places in the wine regions to get hold of bikes and bits, but Adelaide has loads of decent bike shops. Check this one out - it’s particularly good.
Bicycle Express
124 Halifax Street
Adelaide SA 5000
www.bicycleexpress.com.au
